Why can I never get a perfectly clear, in focus photo on my SLR camera? - what lens for perfect slr photo
Whenever I have a photo with my Sigma 300mm lens, I see it as perfectly in the viewfinder, but when I am on my computer the picture is still a little blurry.
His friends say, because the target is soft, but if it is true, why can I see the number of perfect vision looking through the same lens?
Is there some adjustment I can delete my images?
Saturday, December 12, 2009
What Lens For Perfect Slr Photo Why Can I Never Get A Perfectly Clear, In Focus Photo On My SLR Camera?
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9 comments:
Use a tripod.
Press the shutter of the camera or retardant cable outlet.
You should keep your f stop between f5.6 and f11 the overall performance of your destination.
You try to keep the ISO at (100), if you shoot sports / directory.
If you absolutely have to hand, this goal remains the shutter speed to 1 / 500 and more.
Always use a tripod, even if landscapes with wide angle 21 mm.
Use a tripod.
Press the shutter of the camera or retardant cable outlet.
You should keep your f stop between f5.6 and f11 the overall performance of your destination.
You try to keep the ISO at (100), if you shoot sports / directory.
If you absolutely have to hand, this goal remains the shutter speed to 1 / 500 and more.
Always use a tripod, even if landscapes with wide angle 21 mm.
Probably do not have a shutter speed fast enough. The general rule for minimum shutter speed manually (without stand) 1/focal stands at the center, the minimum speed, which would be the target of 1 / 300, makes use of realistic, you probably want at least 1 / 500. It is likely that what they see, away from your movement while the shutter is opened. This is very common with long lenses. A tripod or monopod would be useful.
For what proved, even if the target is "soft look", the still omnipresent in the viewfinder. If the image on your computer as you see more than a foot wide, while the viewfinder image detail not so. Terrible lenses look "very good" through the viewfinder. In addition, the viewfinder does not reflect what the entire opening, when the depth of field, which may not be used to present in the chamber.
A 300-mm lens is a goal that long. If you try to hand hold the camera at a speed below 1 / 500, the result is disappointing.
The best way is to set the camera on a tripod (or monopod) when using a telephoto lens.
A 300-mm lens is a goal that long. If you try to hand hold the camera at a speed below 1 / 500, the result is disappointing.
The best way is to set the camera on a tripod (or monopod) when using a telephoto lens.
Siggy that the camera? 300/2.8?
no picture of the sample?
AF or MF?
Maybe it's your opening?
Perhaps the shutter speed is too slow and is Shakey (show nearly 80 years, moving, if you have a tripod)?
Maybe it's just a bad goal?
Tripod.
More than likely, it is the lens. It looks good in the viewfinder as it is an image that is less than 1 inch. Suddenly the image on the screen, it becomes solid, and shortcomings of the program. I had solved the same problem with Tokina 80-400 and 80-400 Nikon I, problem.
Here is a photo with a Nikon 80-400mm is at 400 x 600 size, but still made strong.
http://www.cgipix.com/Wild_Animal_Park9. ...
The "evidence" do you, is to collect high-contrast settings. Ribbon on a white wall. Marco is when the band runs through the viewfinder, and away from you. Focus on one element, and a stick or an object to see the development. Take some pictures and see if the problem is a rear focusing lens or bad. The point may be replaced by some cameras with internal parameters, or use manual focus to be resolved.
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